Discoloration on the face – causes, types, treatment

Facial discolorations are a common dermatological problem that affects individuals of various ages. They can appear as spots, speckles, or larger areas with varying degrees of color intensity. They arise due to excessive production of melanin, the skin pigment, and can have diverse causes, ranging from sun exposure to hormonal changes. In this article, we will examine both superficial and deeper discolorations and discuss methods to prevent their occurrence and eliminate existing changes. Striving for healthy and even complexion, it is important to understand the significance of proper skincare and avoiding risk factors.

Fighting the passage of time (anti-aging) is doomed to lose from the start. It doesn’t matter how much money you have or how hard you try to turn back the clock. If you enter the race for a younger appearance, whether with skin smoothed by Botox or not, you will always lose to younger colleagues. Just as in the past, those older than you would lose the race. Unless… they exuded a kind of attractiveness and confidence that the crow’s feet appearing when smiling broadly only added to their charm.

Of course, aesthetic medicine can slow down certain processes and mitigate the effects of some mistakes (e.g., over-tanning). However, over time, the skin’s demands become greater, and the effects of treatments are increasingly less able to meet them. It quickly becomes apparent that more does not necessarily mean better. Dr. Danuta Nowicka, a dermatologist and specialist in aesthetic medicine who has been studying the impact of active substances on the condition and youthful appearance of the skin for 20 years, knows this very well.

Less is More

We live in times of ubiquitous marketing, where at every turn someone tries to sell us something. This translates into our thinking – to achieve a certain effect, we should buy something extra. How effective this persuasion is, Dr. Danuta Nowicka often realizes during patients’ first visits. “They come with skin problems or the first signs of aging and always ask the same question: ‘What else should I use to solve my problem?’ And sometimes, to improve skin condition, you need to subtract, not add,” explains Dr. Danuta Nowicka.

Sun-induced Discolorations

The cells of our skin, called melanocytes, produce melanin. This is a natural pigment that gives skin its color and protects it from harmful UV radiation.

Under normal conditions, melanocytes deposit melanin evenly in the epidermis. When their function is disrupted, excessive pigment production occurs, leading to discolorations. This situation is primarily caused by inadequate sun protection and excessive and frequent exposure of the facial skin to the sun. Sun-induced discolorations are characterized by darker spots on the skin of the face of varying sizes and irregular shapes.

How to Remove Sun-induced Discolorations?

Retinol, or vitamin A, is highly effective in dealing with sun-induced discolorations. It is one of the most well-researched ingredients in skincare products and, although not a novelty in the cosmetic market, it remains at the top and does not give way to others. It effectively eliminates discolorations and makes dull, tired skin regain its glow. However, it is important to remember that irritation and peeling are very common side effects of using retinol initially. Therefore, regardless of skin type, the same rule must be followed – gradually introducing retinol into skincare. Always start with products that contain low concentrations of retinol – around 0.2-0.3%.

Be careful – starting next year, the EU is changing the regulations for retinol allowed in creams. The regulation draft stipulates that ingredients must meet the requirements related to the maximum concentrations set at 0.05% for balms and 0.3% for other cosmetic products.

For the first few weeks, retinol products can be applied only twice a week, at night. Once the skin adapts, you can apply them three times a week, and later even daily. And importantly, retinol products must be applied to well-dried skin. Moist skin increases the penetration of the ingredient and possible irritation. Autumn and winter are ideal times to start retinol therapy.

In the case of sun-induced discolorations, acid treatments are also an effective option. To avoid harming yourself and to choose the right acid for your skin type, it is best to go for such treatments to a dermatologist. However, if you decide to undertake a home treatment, start with acids intended for dry, sensitive skin, such as phytic, azelaic, or tranexamic acid. Also, remember that when using retinol and acids, you must ensure proper skin hydration. Use highly moisturizing creams and drink at least 1.5 liters of water daily.

How to Protect Against Sun-induced Discolorations?

First and foremost, prevent them from forming. And here, a necessary condition is adequate sun protection. During summer and even winter, you should use sunscreens with high UV filters (preferably mineral). “Mineral filters are a better choice because, unlike chemical ones, they protect facial skin from visible and infrared radiation, which contribute to the formation of discolorations. Sun protection should also be remembered after undergoing treatments such as microdermabrasion, chemical peels, or ablative fractional laser. Also, when working ‘behind the wheel’ or in a sunny room.”

Listen to the Vogue podcast “Good Composition,” in which Dr. Danuta Nowicka discussed sun protection.

Sun exposure is not the only cause of discolorations on the facial skin. The appearance of unsightly spots on the face is also influenced by hormones and medications.

Hormonal Discolorations – Melasma (Chloasma)

Hormonal discolorations typically affect women between the ages of 30 and 50. This is primarily due to hormonal imbalances resulting from taking hormonal contraceptives and hormone replacement therapy. This issue also arises in pregnant women or those breastfeeding.

Hormonal discolorations are extensive, light or dark brown spots with irregular shapes. They most often appear on the cheeks, upper lip, nose, forehead, or chin. They tend to recur and are very difficult to treat.

Medication-induced Discolorations

Medications taken can also cause the appearance of discolorations on the skin. “This group of medications includes some antibiotics and a large group of antidepressants, as well as the use of herbs like St. John’s Wort, chamomile, marigold, horsetail. It only takes a little time in the sun for discoloration to form!”

Mature Skin Discolorations – Lentigines, Sunspots

With age, the boundary between the epidermis and the dermis in the skin becomes disrupted. So-called “leaks” form from one layer to the other, which greatly favors the formation of discolorations. These are approximately 2 cm, small dark brown spots. They can occur on the face but also on other parts of the body.

“Remember – spots age us more than wrinkles! Prevent them as effectively as possible, and if they do appear, don’t hesitate to seek help from an expert.”

Dr. Danuta Nowicka

Facial Discolorations – Removal

The most important thing is to accurately determine the cause of the facial discolorations. This will allow you to choose the appropriate treatment method and eliminate the imperfections. Here, there is another division of discolorations: into those that are easy and difficult to remove.

The easiest to remove are sun-induced and those that appear in mature skin. The others require long, often multi-month therapy and combining various methods. A series of appropriately selected treatments, carried out at suitable intervals, may be needed for several months or even a year.

Methods of Removing Discolorations

There is no single method or treatment for removing discolorations on the facial skin. However, there are several treatments that are effective in treating these troublesome and unsightly skin imperfections. The most effective include laser treatments and those using mesotherapy and microneedle radiofrequency. They act very precisely at various skin depths without worrying about damaging other skin structures.

Facial Discolorations – Frequently Asked Questions and Answers